From Rosalind Creasy

Winter squashes are Mexico’s gift to the cooking world. These nutritional powerhouses are not only lusciously delicious and sweet; in the kitchen they are extremely versatile. Over the years I have studied this vegetable and cooked dozens of different types. Today, I would say, my favorites are the sweet butternut, I find it the easiest to peel and the cubes are great for roasting; Kabocha (Japanese chestnut squashes) that have such dense flesh and meatiness that are perfect for baking and pureeing; and, I love the acorn types for their rich mellow flavor that pairs so well with all type of nuts and brown sugar.

In Mexico winter squashes are made into a puree and baked inside empanadas, or bathed in a sugar syrup, then dried, and eaten as a favorite children’s snack. The seeds are roasted and salted or added to candies, even ground into their famous mole sauces.

Early on the explorers introduced this giant vegetable to Europe and soon the Italians were adding winter squash cubes to risotto and soups, and they mashed and seasoned the pulp with herbs and spices to fill raviolis. In gay Paris they use the heirloom pumpkin Rouge Vif d’Etampes to bake a rich leek and cheese soup and create a rich gratin by layering the squash and baking it with cream and hazelnuts.

In this country, for centuries the Native Americans have roasted whole squash in the coals or added the cubes to stews along with venison or turkey and flavored them with chilies. The colonists grew and cooked winter squash as well. They mashed the flesh and sweetened the pulp with sugar or molasses, and sometimes apples were added. This mixture was then made into pies and puddings, which were served as a side dish to the meal with other vegetables and starches. Not until the twentieth century were pies and puddings accepted as dessert items.

If I had to limit myself to three winter squash recipes I would choose the following:

Native Winter Squash Stew

This is recipe based on one given to me by Maheena Drees and Gary Nabham of Native Seed Search years ago. It’s one of my favorite recipes and I make lots of variations.

1 pound organic ground turkey meat
2 tablespoons oil
2 large onions, chopped
4 to 6 cups or organic winter squash, peeled and cubed (Butternut is ideal)
6 to 8 fresh mild green chilies roasted, peeled, and chopped or 2 - 4 ounce cans of diced mild chilies
3 cloves garlic, chopped
3 ears of organic sweet corn, kernels removed or 1 large can niblet corn
Salt and pepper to taste
Optional: 2 peeled tomatoes chopped

In a large cast iron stew pot or skillet, brown the turkey meat in oil with the onions. Add the remaining ingredients and simmer covered over a low heat for 30 to 45 minutes or until the squash is tender.

Serves 4 to 6.
~

Potage de Rouge Vif d’Etampes

Rouge Vif d’Etampes is a French heirloom pumpkin reminiscent of Cinderella’s coach. It was introduced to the American market in 1883 by the W. Atlee Burpee Company. While growing in popularity today among heirloom mavens, few know how to cook this delicate-flavored pumpkin. In the 1800’s, Parisian chefs favored it as a base for vegetable stocks. I find it lends itself well to the following rich chowder, served in the French style - in the pumpkin. Serve it as you would a hearty chowder or stew.

6 cups 1-inch cubes of home-made-style white bread
1  (10 to 12-inch) ‘Rouge Vif d’Etampes’ pumpkin or other tasty winter squash
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 pound organic leeks (about 5 medium), white and pale green parts only, finely chopped, (about
5 cups)
1 medium fennel bulb, chopped (about 1 ½ cups)
6 garlic cloves, minced
1 teaspoon powdered saffron
1 1/2 teaspoons dried thyme
1 tablespoon chopped fresh tarragon
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1/4 teaspoon ground cayenne pepper
Approximately 6 cups organic vegetable or chicken broth
Approximately 1 1/2 cups half and half
1 1/2 to 2 cups Gruyere cheese in ½-inch cubes (about 1/2 pound)

Preheat the oven to 350º F. Put the bread cubes on cookie sheet and bake them for 10 minutes, stirring once. Remove from the oven and set aside.

Cut a 6-inch diameter lid from the top of the pumpkin. With a sharp metal spoon, scrape out seeds and stringy membranes. Place the pumpkin on a shallow baking pan. If the pumpkin does not sit level on the pan, support the tilting side with a piece of rolled-up aluminum foil.

In a large sauté pan, heat the oil and sauté the leeks, fennel, and garlic until they are tender, about 10 minutes.  Turn off heat and add the saffron, thyme, tarragon, salt, pepper, cayenne, and bread cubes, tossing them to mix thoroughly. Pour in chicken broth and half and half, stir gently and ladle mixture into the pumpkin. The pumpkin should be filled within two inches of the top. Distribute the cheese cubes on top and replace the lid.

Bake the pumpkin for about 1 1/2 hours, then remove the lid and bake for another 1/2 hour or until the pumpkin flesh is tender and the cheese is golden brown. Watch carefully as the pumpkin will fall apart if over-cooked.

Using two large spatulas, transfer the pumpkin to a large, warm serving platter or bowl. To serve, use a large serving spoon to scoop out some of the soup into each bowl, then scrape some of the flesh from the pumpkin and add it to the soup. Be careful to not go through the skin, as the liquid will leak out.

Serves 4
~

Baked Winter Squash with Maple Nut/Seed Butter

A wonderful compliment to squash is a nut or seed butter. The rich flavors seem meant for each other. You can make your own nut or seed butter, or many types are available in natural foods and specialty stores.

Basic baking directions are given below; the time will vary and the number of people served will depend on the size and variety of squash.

2 organic acorn or other small squash (about 1 1/4 pound each), OR 1
medium butternut squash (about 2 1/2 pounds)
3 tablespoons each dairy butter, nut or seed butter, and maple syrup

Place squash on a baking pan and bake at 350 F. for 3/4 to 1 1/2 hours, or until soft. You may want to turn the squash a couple of times for more even cooking. Cut in half and remove seeds, (save to wash and toast for snacks if you like), and strings; if using 1 squash, cut again to make 4 servings. Put back on baking pan cut sides up. In a small saucepan, melt dairy butter, add nut or seed butter and syrup, and stir to mix.

Spoon mixture into squash cavities and coat surfaces. Return to oven for about 10 minutes to heat through before serving.

Serves 4
~
See also Jeff’s All About Winter Squash (Organic Recipes)
~~
Rosalind Creasy is author of Rosalind Creasy’s Recipes From The Garden: 200 Exciting Recipes from the Author of the Complete Book of Edible Landscaping and many others.
Images Credit: Rosalind Creasy
OrganicToBe.org | OrganicToGo.com
[Permanent Link] [Top]

From Greg Atkinson

Over the years, I have gradually reinvented the ham I remember from childhood. That one was pierced with cloves and studded with pineapple rings and maraschino cherries. This one is sleek and finished with a simple glaze. One thing it shares with my grandfather’s ham is the bottle of beer poured into the bottom of the roasting pan to provide braising liquid. For the best flavor, I buy a naturally raised ham like the Applewood Smoked Ham from Niman Ranch. It’s expensive, but this is a special occasion dish, perfect for a family gathering.

Makes 12 servings, with leftovers

1 fully cooked, bone-in half ham, 7 to 8 pounds

One 12-ounce bottle lager beer

1 cup brown sugar

1. Bring the ham up to room temperature by removing it from the refrigerator at least an hour before baking. Preheat the oven to 300°F. Score the ham on the fatty side, cutting about 1/8 inch deep in a crisscross pattern.

2. Place the scored ham, fatty side up, in a 9- by 13-inch roasting pan and pour the beer into the pan around the ham. Cover the pan with baker’s parchment and then with aluminum foil, tucking the foil in at the edges of the pan to create a seal. Bake the ham until an instant-read thermometer registers 110°F when inserted into the meatiest part of the ham, about 1½ hours.

3. Remove the ham from the oven, take it out of the pan, and pour the juices that have accumulated in the pan into a small saucepan. Ladle off any excess fat and stir in the brown sugar. Cook over medium heat until the sugar is dissolved to make a glaze.

4. Put the ham back in the pan. Pour the glaze over the surface of the ham. Put the ham back in the oven and bake, uncovered, until it is heated through and the glaze is caramelized, about 30 minutes. Allow the ham to rest at room temperature for 10 minutes before slicing.
~
See also Dave’s Keeping Pigs and Making Sweet Bacon
~~
Greg Atkinson is author of West Coast Cooking, and The Northwest Essentials Cookbook, and lives on Bainbridge Island, Washington. Greg is Culinary Director of OrganicToGo.
Image Credit: © Vladimir Surkov | Dreamstime.com
OrganicToBe.org | OrganicToGo.com
[Permanent Link] [Top]

From Jesse Cool

There are a handful of standard recipes that I have taught my children, knowing that no matter where or what situation, they can create from scratch something that will make people happy. I have yet to meet anyone who doesn’t like warm biscuits. These drop-biscuits are the easiest to prepare, with no need for kneading or rolling of the dough. My sons prepare them often.

1 cup organic buttermilk
1 organic egg beaten
1 tablespoon organic lemon zest
2 teaspoons finely chopped fresh rosemary
2 cups organic whole grain pastry flour
1 tablespoon baking powder
1 teaspoon salt
½ cup cold organic butter

Preheat the oven to 375°F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.

In a small bowl, combine the buttermilk, egg, lemon zest, and rosemary.

In a medium bowl, combine the flour, baking powder, and salt. Grate the butter into the mixture. Using your hands or a pastry blender, work the butter into the flour mixture until the pieces are about the size of peas. Form a well in the center of the flour mixture and stir in the buttermilk mixture just until blended.

Drop the batter by large tablespoons onto the prepared baking sheet to form 12 biscuits. Bake for 12 to 15 minutes, or until golden and a wooden pick inserted in the center of a biscuit comes out clean.
~
See also Jesse’s Creamy Organic Autumn Soup Recipe
~~
Jesse Cool is author of Simply Organic: A Cookbook for Sustainable, Seasonal, and Local Ingredients and many others, is owner of CoolEatz Restaurants and Catering, and lives in Menlo Park, California.
Image Credit: © Anna Khomulo | Dreamstime.com
OrganicToBe.org | OrganicToGo.com
[Permanent Link] [Top]