
From GREG ATKINSON (2001)
I don’t know if it was the first time I ever dug a potato, but I do know that it was a revelation. The sun bore down on the dry ground, even though the air was already cold. The soil was piled in long, mounded rows and the withered potato vines were markers for where to dig. We plunged our hands into the piles of soft loamy earth and came out with balls of gold as big as goose eggs. They were Yellow Finn potatoes and they were pure golden sunlight when we boiled them and shook them in a pan with butter.
I was at a farm – not much more than a garden really – owned by the same man that owned the restaurant where I worked, and I was working with Greg Brickman, the gardener. A short man with a long beard, a sparkle in his eye and a impish grin, he was something like a leprechaun in the garden. He grew Yellow Finns, Purple Peruvians and Russian Bananas. I thought he was a little out there. I just wanted plain red “C’s,” small potatoes that I could brown in olive oil with rosemary and serve with my rack of lamb. But Greg had a penchant for the obscure, and he was always seeking out and finding unusual varieties of everything.
He introduced me to yellow beets, candy-cane radishes, purple green beans and weird greens like orick and mizuna. Eventually, I would come to cherish those vegetables, and coax other farmers into growing them for me, but at first I was a little dubious. “Will they taste good?” I wanted to know.
So he invited me out to the farm to see what was left of the summer’s crop – root vegetables mostly, and a few hearty greens. We dug those potatoes and he set up a camp stove and we boiled them in well water and shook them with butter and that was the beginning.
Now I grow potatoes of my own: Red Bliss, White Rose and Yukon Gold. I love them. I look for them at farmers’ markets when my own meager supplies have dwindled and I order them from wholesale distributors to keep the restaurant supplied. And I wonder why, for so long, have people grown only a few varieties, white Russet Burbanks mostly and a lot of red-skinned “new” potatoes like Red Pontiac and Sangre. The answer, of course, is high yield and reliability.
“Some Yukon Golds and various reds are being grown, and there’s a few blue potatoes being grown in Skagit Valley,” says Andrew Jensen of the Washington Potato Commission. “The vast majority of potatoes grown in Washington are the old familiar bakers.” more→